In Search of the Himalayan Snowcock:A Birding Adventure with Wes Biggs, et al.

By Sarah Linney

Bright and early on August 5, 2005, four birders struck out for the Great Basin area and the Ruby Mountains. We were Eugene Stoccardo, Alex Vinokur, myself and the illustrious Wes Biggs, the latter having organized the trip to get a single life bird: the Himalayan Snowcock.

From Orlando we flew to Salt Lake City via Denver where we initially managed to go to the wrong gate, in the wrong terminal because the flight attendants didn't tell us anything nor was the flight posted on the screens. Despite the mix-up and a narrow 45-minute layover, we did make the connection. It still puzzles me why on a 3.5 hr flight you get one glass of beverage, and on the next leg of about an hour, you get the whole can?

But back to the quest. After getting our rental car, a Dodge Magnum, and lunch, we were off on I-80W toward Elko, Nevada. We stopped at the Lake Bonneville Salt Flats Rest Area where, of course, we all had to walk out and taste the salty crust. We picked up about 10 species to the state line, and one was my first life bird of the trip, a California Gull. In the mid-level mountains near Oasis, NV we stopped at the Pequop Ranch, with habitat of sagebrush, pinyon pine and pinyon juniper. Fourteen more species (7 lifers) were seen between the dirt road and the ranch, including Juniper Titmouse, Violet-green Swallow, Plumbeous Vireo, Mountain Bluebird, and Brewer's Sparrow. At the ranch, Alex found a dead raven and the head of a Red-naped Sapsucker, probably a cat's handiwork. We also observed a young Brown-headed Cowbird following a robin around, "mom" apparently, and a Western Tanager feeding its young.

By mid-evening, we arrived at our hotel and checked in only to discover that the rooms had no A/C! We were told one of the central A/C units had been out for a month and just repaired, but were assured our rooms were on the cool side. Right. I called the front desk: "Just found out the cooling unit is down." We got the charges refunded and a few attempts later had found new accommodations. The guys lucked out with a room having 3 queen-sized beds; I however, discovered another hot room. A quick call, the turn of a knob, and cool air was flowing. Ahhh! Late dinner was at a local Basque restaurant, an interesting family-style, multi-course meal including each person's entre.

Pre-dawn the next morning we headed to the Humboldt National Forest in the Ruby Mountains with high hopes of finding the snowcocks. Wes had arranged to meet another birding group there lead by Adrian Binns and Mark Stackhouse. It's 4 a.m. From the parking lot at 8800 ft. and a breezy 50F or so, we begin the 2 1/3 mile trek to our final destination up about another 1200 ft with flashlights and headlamps glaring. The trail was reasonably level with 9 switchbacks, but the elevation and a knapsack with several water bottles made for a strenuous hike, more for some than others. All but one older lady reached the base of the glacial cirque between 5:30 and 6:00 a.m. where our searching began. Birds of note going up were a silhouetted Clark's Nutcracker and an American Dipper that Wes said nearly flew into him. About 6 snowcocks had been spotted near the top of the cirque (11,000 ft.) before a Golden Eagle had scattered them. We had to rely on others with scopes to relocate the birds initially as Eugene had carried up the tripod, but Wes had the scope and was still halfway down the mountain with Adrian! A family of Mountain Goats entertained us in the meanwhile, and the eagle flew out of hiding but off over the valley, not bothering the birds again.

As timing would have it, Wes arrived just as two of the snowcocks flew closer to us, but still several hundred feet away, and everyone got great looks at the largest grouse in the US, albeit introduced. Success! The other birders headed out shortly and we hung out to look for some other birds and enjoy the scenery. As Alex had never seen snow, he and Eugene bounded off to a snow pack about 1/2 mile away and had a snowball fight, made a snowman, and a snow angel, all the while whooping it up. Other birds of note seen before descending were Black Rosy-finch, Cassin's Finch, Virginia's Warbler (I missed), Grey-headed Juncos, and 3 species of hummingbirds: Calliope, Broad-tailed, and Rufous. We looked for the dipper again but I guess Wes had scared it off. We had more looks at Clark's Nutcrackers, also a Dusky Flycatcher, and Pine Siskins (missed these too). The slope was in full sun going down and the number, variety, and colors of the wildflowers and accompanying butterflies was amazing!

Leaving the area, we stopped at the Humboldt National Forest Power Plant Picnic Area for Lewis's Woodpeckers. We enjoyed lunch in the town of Lamoille on the porch of a local restaurant, listening to Cedar Waxwings in nearby trees. Afterwards, we drove around checking out feeders and fields. New species were a (living) Red-naped Sapsucker, a male Black-chinned Hummingbird, Western Kingbird, Canada Geese, and a surprise Wild Turkey crossing the road.

A short respite at the hotel and we were off again around 6 p.m. to the South Fork Recreation Area. On the way, we all had good looks at a Swainson's Hawk on a streetlamp in town, a family of Burrowing Owls up on fence posts on ranchland, White-faced Ibis, Ravens, and Black-billed Magpies. At the reservoir we found Cinnamon Teal in eclipse plumage, Western, Clark's and Eared Grebes, and several other duck species including Gadwall. Sage Thrashers were numerous, and Western Meadowlarks not uncommon; Yellow-headed and a few Red-winged Blackbirds observed near a boat launch, as well as California and Franklin Gulls. Another stop gave us a few Wilson's Phalaropes spinning around and distant White Pelicans. We even saw a Sandhill Crane feeding in the tall grass.

We got back to town about 8:30 p.m. and had dinner at a Chinese buffet, along with a busload of Oriental tourists!! Tomorrow another adventure.